Build review: FineMolds 1/72 F-14D Tomcat Part III

Gary's build of Finemolds F-14 Tomcat in 1/72nd scale has of course already been finished, but he has created a build article of about 10,000 words and many pictures to show you all of the elements that had to come together to create this masterwork. In this part, you see a lot more about how he got it all looking so good.

Build review: FineMolds 1/72 F-14D Tomcat - Part III

This kit is currently available exclusively from the many parts of the Model Graphix Magazine from Hobby Link Japan

Other parts of this review series:
Part 1 Modelgraphix & F-14 (engine nose & cockpit)
Part 2 Modelgraphix & F-14 (Fuselage)
Part 3 SA Magazine & F-14 (stores + Modelkasten Pilots)
Part 4 Modelgraphix & F-14 (Wings & Stores)
Part 5 Gary’s finished build galery of Finemolds 72nd scale Tomcat

Part I of the build of this kit
Part II of the build of this kit
Part IV of the build of this kit

Part V of the build of this kit

Today we continue on with Gary’s magnificent build in this – Part III of the build

Now is the time to assemble the chin pod and gear doors. Again take note that the assembly sequence runs from right to left as this was designed primarily for a Japanese audience.

One surprise (and let me tell you there are not many with this kit) was the large ejection pin marks on the interior of the nose gear doors. These were however easily dealt with by some garden variety Tamiya Basic Grey putty.

Steps 12-14 deal with the assembly of the main landing gear. I much prefer to assemble as much of any sub-assembly as possible before applying paint. In this case I wanted to glue the main strut to the support brace.

The best way to ensure I had the parts at the correct angle before gluing was to insert them into their corresponding mounting hole in the wheel well. Tape is used to hold everything correctly aligned and then liquid glue applied to the join and allowed to dry in place. This method ensures that the completed gear assembly (after painting etc) will have no problems being fitted at the very end of the build.

This photo I took of an F-14A on-board the USS Kittyhawk during her visit to Australia back in 2002 shows clearly the parts of the main gear. I chose not to worry about adding the piping and cabling visible here but would almost certainly do so in a larger scale.

Once assembled the whole unit is painted with a black base and Tamiya White Primer. Small details like the exposed hydraulic struts will be hand painted later prior to weathering.

Though not mentioned in the FineMolds instructions, even a cursory review of F-14 photos in the wild will reveal that the forward pane of the windshield is coated in a transparent tinted finish. The easiest way to reproduce this on the model is to use a clear paint which is always best to airbrush. Masking is therefore required so that only the appropriate panel is covered. Thin strips of Tamiya tape can be made to curve around just about anything I have found and so the gentle curves on this part did not provide much of a challenge.

Here we see the finished windshield glued in place (with thin super glue). I applied two light coats of Tamiya X28 Clear Green to get the result shown here. You need to proceed slowly when using clear colours as its easy to get heavy handed and end up with too dark a result. With these paints, I find that "less is more".

A good shot of the mostly finished forward fuselage and cockpit. All that remains here is to begin the masking process. I was happy with my decision to use the kit supplied decals for the cockpit panels as I think they look very effective at this scale.

Turning next to the canopy and it's time to decide if you want to display it open or closed because different canopy framing parts are provided depending on which way you go as per step 24.

After studying some F-14 reference photos I decided that the model really needed some rear view mirrors on the canopy frame. The quickest way to scratch build these (as I did not have any PE sets in 1:72) was from some 10 thou card strips cut to length and the ends rounded off. Working in such close proximity to the canopy clear parts with glue makes me nervous and so I chose to use CA glue to attach the mirrors. I considered using a less aggressive glue like PVA but was not convinced it had the strength to do the job (and it takes forever to dry to a point with any strength).

As my canopy was going to be displayed in the open position I needed to mask and paint the interior framing. I see so many models where people take the shortcut of painting the interior colour on the outside of the clear part, which I think is fine if you plan to close the canopy but not if the canopy is open. Ultimately its up to each modeller to decide what’s best for their model but its little things like this that help you step up the finish of your overall model and who needs to take shortcuts in our hobby anyway?

Whilst I was in a masking mood (when are you ever in a masking mood !!) I flipped the canopy over and did the exterior masking as well.

As with the nose of the model, FineMolds gives us the option to open or close the airbrakes on the top/bottom of the beaver tail. As I was planning a maintenance display I figured that everything open was the best option.

There is quite a bit preparation needed to the rear area before we can start painting. Wherever practical I very much like to add as much as possible to an aircraft model before painting. I also like to leave off things like exhaust nozzles, undercarriage legs and generally anything else that could be damaged due to careless handling (yes I too am careless from time to time). In the case of the FineMolds F-14 after some test fitting I determined that I could safely attach the outboard fairings that cover part of the engine exhaust assembly. I very rarely stick to the manufacturers assembly sequence preferring to decide for myself the most logical sequence to make my life easier further down the track.

Tomcats that have been converted to Bombcats or Strikecats are capable of carrying unguided and guided bombs loaded on BRU-32 bomb racks. The BRU's with dual ejector pistons are fitted into the original Phoenix weapon pallets by means of ADU-703 adapters. When the pallets are fitted the AIM-7 Sparrow launch wells are covered. By this stage of the build I had a clear idea in my mind of how I planned to display the finished model on a carrier deck undergoing maintenance. This meant that I could not realistically attach ordinance to the jet so the weapon pallets would remain empty.

Small details like the wheel well interiors are now painted to allow me to mask these along with the other interior sections prior to main painting. All white areas on the model were base coated with black and then finished with Tamiya White Primer.

FineMolds gives us a choice of two spines, one closed up and the other open. Worth noting is the footnote in step 3 that tells you to glue the glove vanes in the closed position. This is needed because the F-14D had the glove vanes removed completely so be sure to fill and sand the join on these parts. The fact that these parts are even provided separately does make me wonder if FineMolds plans to release an A/B Tomcat kit in the future?

The open spine interior detail is very nice with cabling, piping and actuating rods all included. I chose to add some plasticard behind the detail parts to help give the panel some depth. All parts were hand painted with Vallejo acrylics.

Construction now moved ahead quite quickly with the tails and other airframe bits and bobs being added. I rely quite a lot on Milliput putty to help close up small gaps. Milliput allows me to fill gaps that aren't bad enough to warrant complete filling with CA and subsequent re-scribing.

Given the amount of extra detail FineMolds provides in this kit its a bit of a surprise that they didn't go the distance and give us separate flaps and slats on the wings. I personally was not too phased about this as I always planned in having my F-14s wings swept anyway.

I really don't understand why the wings were designed with the F11 & F16 inserts. Perhaps on A/B Tomcats this part of the wing was different but whatever the reason it leaves us with a seam that needs to be removed completely. This is an ideal example of using CA glue as a filler.

To allow the model to be displayed with the wings open or swept, FineMolds provides two alternate sets of air bags to cater for the inflated (open) and deflated (swept) wing positions.

I appreciated the simple wing pivot point which allowed me to attach the wing after the model is completed. It’s a basic tongue and groove design that self-aligns and fits like a glove. Attention to these small details helps to make this model stand out from the crowd.

A close-up shot of the top of the fuselage with the wings temporarily fitted in the half swept position. I always like to go over the surface of the model prior to painting with my Tamiya Scriber and lightly (very lightly) sharpen up each panel line (and rivet using a sharp needle point). This helps reassure me that when it comes to the time later on that my panel wash will be sharp and crisp. It's extra work for sure, but from experience it yields results and that’s more important to me.

Flipping the model 180 degrees onto its back affords us a good clear view of the belly. You can tell from the visible runs of yellow Milliput that there were several small seam gaps that needed some attention. The front interior of the engine intakes is painted the same colour as the fuselage on F-14's. I have primed this area in black (as shown here) and it will be painted at the same time as the rest of the exterior undersides. Be sure to plan ahead and pre-drill the mounting holes for the drop tanks and shoulder pylons.

The underside of the beaver tail and engine nacelles. I decided to leave the arrestor hook off to make it easier to mask the airbrake well. Note again the presence of Milliput on the base of the ventral fins.

Construction of the model is now primarily complete. Next step will be to commence the detail masking in preparation for exterior painting.

By this stage of the project, I was beginning to plan out the display base for the model. I already have an assortment of resin and plastic US Navy deck drew figures and tractors but they are all from the usual suspects (Verlinden, Fujimi etc) and after a couple of similar projects they all start to look the same. Whilst searching for something new I came across reedoak.com which offered a respectable collection of 3D printed figures, which just happen to include some US Navy deck crew in interesting poses. Under extreme magnification, you can see the layers that are part of the "printing" process. They look quite pronounced in these photos but let me assure you that with the naked eye you cannot see any of this. I have included four photos of the figures so you can judge for yourself their quality.

Part IV of this build process is to follow in serial form over the next few days

Other parts of this review series:
Part 1 Modelgraphix & F-14 (engine nose & cockpit)
Part 2 Modelgraphix & F-14 (Fuselage)
Part 3 SA Magazine & F-14 (stores + Modelkasten Pilots)
Part 4 Modelgraphix & F-14 (Wings & Stores)
Part 5 Gary’s finished build of Finemolds 72nd scale Tomcat


Part I of the build of this kit
Part II of the build of this kit
Part IV of the build of this kit
Part V of the build of this kit

Gary Wickham

Thanks to Hobby Link Japan for sending us the magazine/ model kit combo – look for the other parts of this magazine very soon and then a full build of this exciting looking little kit...

See more of Gary's wonderful builds on his Facebook Page and his Scalespot Website.