The Modelling News: Build Guide Pt II: URAL-4320 in 1/72nd scale from ICM

We present the second part of Andy King's build of the 72nd scale URAL-4320 truck from ICM. He tackles the complex digital camo decals, painting & weathering in Pt. II today...

Build Guide Pt II: URAL-4320.

From ICM Holding

1/72nd scale

Kit Number: 72708

Model Length 105mm х Height: 38mm

Product Link on the ICM Webpage

Part 1 of this build review showed the initial construction work of this diminutive workhorse, while today's part II will focus on the digital camo scheme, weathering & painting of the model...

Ukrainian Ural 4320 with non-standard pixel camouflage.

In part 1 I focused on the build so in this part I'll show how it was finished and to begin with the model was sprayed overall with Tamiya LP-3 Flat Black.

Next, the model was sprayed with AK RC073 4BO Protective Green (including the cab interior) then some Tamiya LP-4 was mixed into it and sprayed on the upper surfaces to try and add some contrast. The chassis and wheel centres were sprayed with Tamiya LP-5 semi gloss black.

With the base coat on the model then received a couple of coats of Tamiya X-22 Clear to prepare it for the decals and washes

It's probably 'old school' to some but this process works for me and your mileage may vary. The model was then left for a day or so to let the gloss varnish harden off as from experience it marks quite easily.

Now we get to the interesting bit and the main reason as to why I wanted to build the kit. I was curious as to how the decals would actually conform to all the lumps and bumps, however when looking at the decals there were a few snags especially concerning the first option.

First off, if you look carefully at the shapes on the decal sheet and compare them to the instructions you will notice that they are reversed. I was thinking I could still use them but it would have meant a lot of cutting so I went for the second option. The other snag is that the instructions only show one side so the right side would be pure guesswork on my part (unless that side is a mirror image). Finally the other problem is that the instructions don't show the two boards in the upper sides of the middle of the cargo bed as there is just a blank space. Awkward!

With that I began applying the decals as best I could for option two and although the contrast between the paler colours was quite noticeable, once on the model they all virtually looked the same. After following the instructions this is where I got to.

Quite a lot missing so after this it was pure guess work as to where the rest of the decals went and so I ended up with this.

The decals were trimmed where they covered the gaps in the boards of the cargo bed. Once the decals were applied they all got soaked in a decal solvent (I used Micro Sol) and this was the 'make or break' point because if they didn't bed down the model would be ruined.

After letting the solvent do its stuff overnight I took another look the day after and to my surprise, the decals had settled down pretty well considering the surfaces they were applied to. Obviously there were some areas that needed attention but on the whole not bad at all so the dodgy bits were trimmed away using a scalpel and the decals touched up with Vallejo acrylic paint where needed.

The two Vallejo colours were pretty close and with the touching up done the model was given a pin wash of sepia oil colour to emphasis the panel lines, various nooks and crannies etc. due to the small size of the vehicle then left to dry. After a few hours I then sprayed the model with VMS satin varnish and although I was pushing my luck with the drying time of the oil paint there was no adverse reaction.

This varnish gives a really nice finish after spraying and leaving it to dry for a few hours. Personally since I started using VMS satin varnish I feel it has given my models a better look with just enough sheen without it being over the top. Good stuff!

The final details were painted such as the lights, the rear number plate decal was applied to a piece of thin plastic strip and after painting the edges it was glued to the rear left mudguard. The model was then completely assembled, given a dusting of MiG "European earth" pigment and fuel stains painted around the fuel tank and it was done.

Well, what do I think?

Considering the age of the kit and the fact it was tooled by another company (Omega-K) it's not a bad little kit and although I had reservations about the decals, they performed pretty well considering the raised details they had to contend with (although I strongly recommend a gloss surface and decal solution).

A walk around of the kit...

It was a shame about the reversed decals for the first option but if you want to do that version you'll need to have a sharp scalpel blade handy or just not be that pedantic.